F
fauzool
Rising Star
Bronze Level
Are you familiar with crushing the micro stakes by Blackrain? I ask because I’m wondering how that book compares to your material program for this. His information I’d assume is fairly outdated and yours is much more recent I’d be interested to here your view on this.
Evan Jarvis
Legend
Platinum Level
I haven't read Nathan's book but I am familiar with him as a person and can safely say that he is a great guy and a quality teacher.
The thing about micros is that the strategies for winning don't really change that much year by year.
Yes, as popular strategies come and go and most common exploits to use will change, but the fundamentals of winning at the game always remain the same
1) proper bankroll management - so you have enough to play and withstand variance
2) good game selection - putting yourself in the best environment to succeed at
3) play solid ranges & respect position - again putting yourself in the best spots
4) adjust bet size and frequency based on board textures / # of opponents
5) adjust your bet size and advanced lines based on opponents tendencies (this is where having a heads up display really comes in handy)
6) repeat the formula over and over to grind out a winrate
7) ensure you have a solid rakeback / bonus deal to get more rewards for your effort
And number 5 is the same for when to hero call people go for big bluffs etc.
That's really it, if you do those things well you will be successful and your game will be adaptable and dynamic, the one that always thrives and is tough to beat.
My guess is that Nathan's teachings probably center around similar principles because these are the winning principles in profitable poker, almost all the courses teach them.
All that being said, I have received an offer from D&B to write a new poker book for 2021, so it will include deeper insights on all these topics, and it will be as modern and up to date as possible. I'm very excited for the project, and grateful that since I always taught ever green content that all my 'preflop checklist' and 'triple threat' material still works today.
Thx for asking this question, hope you found my answer helpful!
F
fauzool
Rising Star
Bronze Level
Thank you for your response! It is helpful to me. I donhave some follow up questions. For reference I’m playing 2NL I’m currently at 16 bb/h with around 7k hands played. My Stats are 14/11/6 vpip/pfr/aggression factor.
With number 4 and 5 I have the biggest problems. I know aggression is very important and right now I can say I’m cbetting 70-80% of the flop my biggest concern with this is when I get called and here comes the turn. It’s either checked to me or I have the option to check/bet if I do not have a made hand I usually check because it seems like I always get called even when they at most they have bottom pair. Bet sizing I’m usually around 60% of pot on the flop without a made hand 70-80% with made hand and on major fish/maniacs I usually bet pot with made hand. Too add if I get 3bet in the flop with say TPTK I’m tempted to fold and I end up folding a lot of them time I’m thinking this is the wrong move. And I can say with almost certainty my issues is when it comes to cbetting flop/turn either I’m folding too much or I’m giving away money by cbetting flop and not the turn. I’ve even been 3bet on the turn with a scare card such as a flush. It’s hard to really know what they have I mean they could be doing anything!
liuouhgkres
Visionary
Bronze Level
Man, thanks a lot for doing this. I hope to learn a lot with your help. If you don't mind I have several theoretical questions.
1. On BB how do you construct your check-raise range on these boards? Ad7s5s, QsJd5h, 854 rainbow and 772. I don't exact hands, but rather what type of hands we raise and why. I want to hear your thinking process. And one thing that I never seem to get answer is, how many bluffs we should have when we check-raise.
2. How do we play our bluff check raises on the turn? I never seem to understand with what bluffs to continue on dry boards.
3. When we are IP, on dry boards we c-bet range on the flop and turn comes neutral. This is a spot when I want to bet pot or even overbet, however I never seem to squeeze in enough bluffs. How we can get enough bluffs, without digging super deep everytime we are on this spot?
1. On BB how do you construct your check-raise range on these boards? Ad7s5s, QsJd5h, 854 rainbow and 772. I don't exact hands, but rather what type of hands we raise and why. I want to hear your thinking process. And one thing that I never seem to get answer is, how many bluffs we should have when we check-raise.
2. How do we play our bluff check raises on the turn? I never seem to understand with what bluffs to continue on dry boards.
3. When we are IP, on dry boards we c-bet range on the flop and turn comes neutral. This is a spot when I want to bet pot or even overbet, however I never seem to squeeze in enough bluffs. How we can get enough bluffs, without digging super deep everytime we are on this spot?
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Amanda A
Legend
Bronze Level
Hi Evan, love your videos. You rock! Congrats on your recent run in the big ACR tourney. I'm currently watching the whole thing on youtube (every time I'm at the gym) and I haven't finished yet, but I have you are at final table. I really like the way you play and wait for opportunities and you are not afraid to put it all in when it makes sense. Those fire shades are pretty awesome too. Anyway, I've only played tourneys, never cash and you said something about how playing cash can help with tourney strategy so I'm just wondering if you wouldn't mind elaborating on that. Where should I start with cash games and what adjustments should I make to my play? Thanks!!!
Evan Jarvis
Legend
Platinum Level
It's important to make sure you have a well constructed betting range on the flop, that way you won't always having nothing when you check on the flop.
It sounds to me like you may be betting a few too many hands on the flop leaving you with too much garbage on the turn and not knowing what to follow thru with. Double. Here are some postflop videos which you'll probably find helpful on the topic
For a deeper dive on the topic Peter Clarke's from the ground up course on run it once is great. Here is a preview / review & a bonus offer as well
Evan Jarvis
Legend
Platinum Level
Hey Amanda, great question!
What I was speaking to in that video on the topic of playing mostly cash games and sit n go's is that it's much easier to get in a lot of volume in these formats, see more hands, more spots, and more situations.
MTTs on the other hand are rather limited so being mostly limited decision, full ring, short stack poker. It's only occasionally that you will make a deep run and get to apply concepts like short handed play, bubble play, and a combination of the two.
Cash games allow you to easily practice deepstack play (which will help you in the early stages of MTTs) and also switch between full ring, shorhanded play, and headsup whenever you like. The other perk is that you can play for as short or as long as you like.
Sit n Go's allow you to easily practice bubble play and shortstack play. This is essential for knowing how to close out tournaments. Because they only take an hour to play (and even less for turbos and hypers) you can get a lot more 'reps' in at bubble dynamic and shorthanded play. Also, like cash games, you can practice 9 handed, 6 handed, or headsup whenever you like as all formats are readily available.
MTTs require you to be skilled in both deepstack play, shortstack play, full ring play, shorthanded play, ICM & Bubble play and headsup play. They also require you to have great stamina to do well in all settings.
Most people know that learning or doing something new requires a lot of effort and energy, whereas doing something you already know well requires little. That's why practicing in the other formats is a great approach, that way each situation will be second nature to you and require little energy (while your opponents are getting exhausted at every switch).
Tournaments are already tough enough requiring 8+ hours of focus, so getting sharp by 'cross training' in other formats is the best way to ensure the only test you're really facing is that of stamina and being comfortable playing higher and higher stakes.
Hope that helps shine some line on the topic. If you'd like some more in depth training on MTT and SNG strategy for free check out http://gripsed.com/free
Thanks for the positive feedback on my play, I'm really glad you enjoyed the deep run, and am happy to announce we're putting together a highlight reel over the next couple of weeks so you can review the key spots more easily & regularly
Good luck & Happy stackin! :star:
Evan Jarvis
Legend
Platinum Level
Man, great questions, I'll see what I can offer on the topics
1) This is highly dependent on a few factors: my defending range, opponents opening range, villains cbetting frequency, villains double barrel frequency, villains fold to check raise frequency. Because each situation is very unique it's hard to give specifics for so many situations.
General rules, if opponent is overly aggressive just call with more showdown value and trap hands, if opponent is a one and done type check/call with lots of float and bet rivers whenever they shut down on turn, if opponent is passive in general check/raise value hands and gutters or backdoor draws because they don't lose much by having to fold to a 3-bet but you'll get a ton of value from all the hands they c-bet fold.
In terms of hands to check raise for value, the best ones are ones that are good for 3 streets/playing for stacks and that don't block your opponents calling range. So on the A75 board checkraising 77 and 55 is much better than checkraising AA because 77 55 get paid by all combos or AK whereas when you have AA there aren't many combos of AK left.
The reason you haven't heard how many bluffs you should have is because as i mentioned before there are too many factors to really get so specific, it all depends on how your opponent will react to your strategy.
The best material i've seen on this topic is in educa-poker's cash course, but it's a bit pricey
2) Again, extremely situational and depends how your opponent will react. If they fold a lot to aggression checkraise more combos draws (and call off if priced in) or checkraise weak draws with intentions to fold. If however they are very sticky and like to call down you want to checkraise more value hands but do it with a wider range.
Great question Alex Fitzgerald uses is 'what's the worst hand my opponent would call a check-raise with here... is the hand i'm check raising for value ahead of that?'
Again extremely situational, and this is why knowing your opponent type is key.
3. I think you answered you own question, if you want to find more bluffs you have to dig deep and get very generous with your minimum requirements (single blockers etc.) or... you can just get out of the GTO mindset and see that if it's a spot where an overbet for value is going to work cause your opponent hates to fold.... overbet for value and don't bluff at all.
It's important to not get stuck on always being perfectly balanced because it's preventing you from exploiting your opponents, it keeps you stuck in your hand and prevents you from taking actions... actions that if they're based on solid reads and fundamentals will make you money.
I've never been one to count combos and make sure all my ranges are perfectly balanced. And for that reason perhaps I was never able to break thru in high stakes. But I have been able to make a great living at midstakes and in tournaments by making the play I feel is best in this moment based on how I believe my opponent will react to it, and that my friend is playing poker.
Here are a couple of videos you may find helpful from my coach
Amanda A
Legend
Bronze Level
Thanks for your reply Evan, I'm definitely going to try cash to practice my deep stacked game. A lot of tourneys I play are not that deep and it gets to shove/fold pretty quick, so this is a way I can work on that early part of the game. Thanks for all the fabo free videos and excellent analysis you've given the poker community!
Aballinamion
Dark Lord of the Sith
Loyaler
Blinds defense
Hey there Jarvis, how you doing? Happy 2020, let it come full of joy and prosperity.
Thank you for your kindness, I spoke to you a few minutes ago in the YouTube streaming, my name was "Henrique Barbosa".
Sorry for making such a complicated question, I'll try to summarize my doubts about blinds defense:
A) How to properly defend the blinds at the micros, considering the rake structure is very high?
B) How do we defend BB and SB specially, against bigger raises such as 3x, 3.5x and 4x?
C) Since the objective of the 6-Max Cash Games (and SNG's and MTT's as well) is to attack and defend the blinds, how do we re-steal 3bet/4bet being out of position? I mean how to steal pots preflop by 3betting light and 4betting light at the micros?
Thank you for your attention and consideration! Respect always and GG and GL at the tables!
Regards;
Carlos 'Aballinamion' Barbosa
Hey there Jarvis, how you doing? Happy 2020, let it come full of joy and prosperity.
Thank you for your kindness, I spoke to you a few minutes ago in the YouTube streaming, my name was "Henrique Barbosa".
Sorry for making such a complicated question, I'll try to summarize my doubts about blinds defense:
A) How to properly defend the blinds at the micros, considering the rake structure is very high?
B) How do we defend BB and SB specially, against bigger raises such as 3x, 3.5x and 4x?
C) Since the objective of the 6-Max Cash Games (and SNG's and MTT's as well) is to attack and defend the blinds, how do we re-steal 3bet/4bet being out of position? I mean how to steal pots preflop by 3betting light and 4betting light at the micros?
Thank you for your attention and consideration! Respect always and GG and GL at the tables!
Regards;
Carlos 'Aballinamion' Barbosa
Evan Jarvis
Legend
Platinum Level
Happy New Year Henrique, 2020 is going to be great.
For specific defending ranges vs all size you will want to pick up one of the courses that's out there on the market. I simply don't information that specific to put into one post, there are too many variables to consider.
The general rules are
A) With higher rake, defend fewer hands than you would with lower rake
B) Against bigger raise sizes defend fewer hands than you would vs small sizes
C) Re-stealing depends on how your opponents respond to 3-bets. The stats to focus on for this are: open range, fold to 3-bet, 4-bet range, c-bet, fold to check-raise, c-bet turn & river.
The question is usually 'can I make more money by just calling with this hand or by 3-betting with this hand' and that will depend on how your opponent plays postflop.
Because each persons stats profile will be unique your range construction would be done on a case by case basis, and I can't put the whole strategy into one post.
If you haven't picked this course up yet it's a great starting place
And for those ranges, any of the premium cash courses at upswing have them, and I would guess that Ryan's site Learn Pro Poker has them as well.
Those are the kind of things that are worth the investment because they have done the sims and will have the optimal ranges for defending to each of those sizes you mentioned. Here's to that, and your prosperity in 2020!
For specific defending ranges vs all size you will want to pick up one of the courses that's out there on the market. I simply don't information that specific to put into one post, there are too many variables to consider.
The general rules are
A) With higher rake, defend fewer hands than you would with lower rake
B) Against bigger raise sizes defend fewer hands than you would vs small sizes
C) Re-stealing depends on how your opponents respond to 3-bets. The stats to focus on for this are: open range, fold to 3-bet, 4-bet range, c-bet, fold to check-raise, c-bet turn & river.
The question is usually 'can I make more money by just calling with this hand or by 3-betting with this hand' and that will depend on how your opponent plays postflop.
Because each persons stats profile will be unique your range construction would be done on a case by case basis, and I can't put the whole strategy into one post.
If you haven't picked this course up yet it's a great starting place
And for those ranges, any of the premium cash courses at upswing have them, and I would guess that Ryan's site Learn Pro Poker has them as well.
Those are the kind of things that are worth the investment because they have done the sims and will have the optimal ranges for defending to each of those sizes you mentioned. Here's to that, and your prosperity in 2020!
Aballinamion
Dark Lord of the Sith
Loyaler
nice and neat
Hi there master Jarvis, thank you, it is very kind of you!
I will look it up for these courses and watch the Run it Once video. You comment was very good and helpful! Have a nice day and gg and gl always!
Regards;
Carlos 'Aballinamion' Barbosa
Hi there master Jarvis, thank you, it is very kind of you!
I will look it up for these courses and watch the Run it Once video. You comment was very good and helpful! Have a nice day and gg and gl always!
Regards;
Carlos 'Aballinamion' Barbosa
Danjwarburton
Rock Star
Silver Level
Evan, hey.
You know my strategy, my goal and how long I have to get there.
Whether you put it on my thread (in my sig) or you put it on here. I'd like to ask how do you think I should incorparate cash games into my 4 years 4 million challenge?
I need huge edges, with weak players, at various limits. How would you suggest I do this moving forward?
I think I need a hyperaggressive shot taking strategy to move up super fast! Any pointers?
You know my strategy, my goal and how long I have to get there.
Whether you put it on my thread (in my sig) or you put it on here. I'd like to ask how do you think I should incorparate cash games into my 4 years 4 million challenge?
I need huge edges, with weak players, at various limits. How would you suggest I do this moving forward?
I think I need a hyperaggressive shot taking strategy to move up super fast! Any pointers?
XXPXXP
Legend
Silver Level
hello
thanks for making this thread.
Just want to ask a question.
Do you think You can beat AI- meaning super computer in Cash games?
And if your answer is No.
My next question is
Do you think Human can improve his/her poker cash game skill with an AI or super computer or just copy the example of super computer - meaning 100% play the same as super computer.
If your answer is Yes.
What is your edge against super computer in the long run, please give me a hint mathematically.
thank you.
thanks for making this thread.
Just want to ask a question.
Do you think You can beat AI- meaning super computer in Cash games?
And if your answer is No.
My next question is
Do you think Human can improve his/her poker cash game skill with an AI or super computer or just copy the example of super computer - meaning 100% play the same as super computer.
If your answer is Yes.
What is your edge against super computer in the long run, please give me a hint mathematically.
thank you.
AndyGamesPoker
Rock Star
Silver Level
Hey Evan,
Do you have any specific advice when it comes to adjusting ro the cash games on ACR. I find I was decent at cash games on other sites, but on ACR I get stacked a lot. My first thought is maybe I shouldn't fall for calling the all-in bets , but this is a difficult adjustment as I am used to tournament play.
Do you have any specific advice when it comes to adjusting ro the cash games on ACR. I find I was decent at cash games on other sites, but on ACR I get stacked a lot. My first thought is maybe I shouldn't fall for calling the all-in bets , but this is a difficult adjustment as I am used to tournament play.
Evan Jarvis
Legend
Platinum Level
In a headsup environment I'm honestly not sure if I could. Given that the AI beat all the brains it would be pretty tough for anyone to stand up to them.
A human can match the strategy, but due to energy levels and emotions it would be hard for them to play literally 100% the same.
The good news is, bots can play live, and there are many more variables to consider in tournaments and multiway pots, so my sticking with these formats you should be just fine.
Get the money while the gettin is good
Evan Jarvis
Legend
Platinum Level
Game selecton is indeed super important
Cash games are a great way to get a lot of practice in and refine your instincts. Then tourneys 1 or 2x a week is enough for you to parlay those sharp skills into big wins.
What i invite you to do is make smaller goals along the way, going for $4 million straight makes you need to take crazy shots, but if you break it down to reaching $400 then $1k then $4k and so on it will take this crazy pressure off that you've placed on yourself.
It will calm you down when you set these mini goals and you'll be able to make more rational decisions rather than these long shot type decisions. Remember bankroll management is everything and you need to ensure you don't bust it.
What you need is high volume, not just huge edges, and patience, by all means use a 20 BI shot taking system but anything less than that you're really flirting with disaster. :icon_king
B
Berndsson90
Rising Star
Bronze Level
How to put people on ranges?
Hey Evan!
First and foremost: Thank you so much for all the quality content. You hinted me towards your videos in another thread and your content really helped me developing my poker game.
The infinite learning curve continues though and I have a question regarding a topic I keep struggling with.
I finally got myself Flopzilla and I started going through a few hands I marked for reviews and practiced how to narrow the range of my opponents on every street. But I kept wondering, how do I know what my opponents calling range is? Aside from the VPIP and the PFR range it still varies a lot from what I think they would call with.
Additionally I need to filter in Flopzilla whether I think my opponent would continue in certain situations with e.g. pp<top card and pp<2nd card for example. I didn't think he would, so I unchecked those stats and it narrowed down the range so much on the river that I had only 3% equity. When I checked them, I had almost 60% equity, which is a huge difference.
So here my question exactly:
How do i put people on their range to make more accurate calculations in my off table study?
And how do I make the right assumptions re their course of action on each street to narrow down their range?
Any help or guideline where to start improving that would be greatly appreciated.
Keep up the good work!
Tino
PS: I fyou are interested in the hand review I was referring to, let me know and I can send it to you if you like and if that helps you helping me.
Hey Evan!
First and foremost: Thank you so much for all the quality content. You hinted me towards your videos in another thread and your content really helped me developing my poker game.
The infinite learning curve continues though and I have a question regarding a topic I keep struggling with.
I finally got myself Flopzilla and I started going through a few hands I marked for reviews and practiced how to narrow the range of my opponents on every street. But I kept wondering, how do I know what my opponents calling range is? Aside from the VPIP and the PFR range it still varies a lot from what I think they would call with.
Additionally I need to filter in Flopzilla whether I think my opponent would continue in certain situations with e.g. pp<top card and pp<2nd card for example. I didn't think he would, so I unchecked those stats and it narrowed down the range so much on the river that I had only 3% equity. When I checked them, I had almost 60% equity, which is a huge difference.
So here my question exactly:
How do i put people on their range to make more accurate calculations in my off table study?
And how do I make the right assumptions re their course of action on each street to narrow down their range?
Any help or guideline where to start improving that would be greatly appreciated.
Keep up the good work!
Tino
PS: I fyou are interested in the hand review I was referring to, let me know and I can send it to you if you like and if that helps you helping me.
Evan Jarvis
Legend
Platinum Level
Hey Tino!
Great question, one I struggled with for a long time myself as well.
What you're talking about is the part of poker that becomes more natural with experience. Learning to predict how opponent types will respond to different actions with different parts of their ranges is one of the main skills that you develop as you play more poker.
For starting points your HUD Stats are very helpful, and otherwise going with standard opening ranges (You can find some in the cash game book which comes with my "Project Get Me Stackin" program). Defending ranges will also depend on HUD stats and what the raise size was (2x raises get a MUCH wider calling range from the big blind than do 2.5 or 3x raises).
A great teaching technique Alex taught me was to use extreme cases, use an extremely tight range and an extremely loose range, then draw your insights and conclusions from this. What you'll learn from this is more valuable than being EXACT during your study.
If you want to watch the rest of his videos they're in playlists on the main page of my youtube channel.
Right postflop assumptions also comes down to player types, LAGs will turn a lot more weak hands into bluffs, whereas TAGs will call with the, and NITs will fold them. For a little more on player types check out these 3 videos.
As you learn how the players think, which ones want to 'fight over every pot' and which ones want to 'follow the math' and which ones 'only want to show down a winner' your intuition will get sharper and sharper.
It's not about being perfect right out of the gate, and keeping these ideas in mind should help you get the most from your studies.
Good luck & Happy Stackin!
Joe
99.98% Kiln dried
Bronze Level
Wow, well that Sir, was an eye-opening read!
I had the pleasure of dropping into your channel the other day, so having experienced first-hand (kinda?) a little of what you're about it's unsurprising that your post was enlightening and struck a chord.
Reading it felt like confirmation of something that had been nagging away at the back of my mind.
It was perhaps naïve to focus all my study, energy and commitment on the MTT domain. I knew little of the 'poker' world when I made the decision to venture into it with more than recreational ambitions. Just that I wanted to be part of it more than anything else.
Anyway... Before I freefall-freetype my way into another War & Peace-esque forum monologue, just wanted to say pleased to make your acquaintance, so to speak.
Please forgive what's surely an inane question, but to someone who had only ever studied MTT strat and little-to-no cash strat (picked up playing wider ranges, obvs widening further with <opponents @ table) what would you say if they were able to relatively easily buy-in and gradually or otherwise multiply that buy-in numerous times over but seemingly always lose the lot eventually, one way or the other?
Is this as simple as 'quit while you're ahead' and don't stay too long or is it something else?
Many thanks in advance, for the Q&A's but also your time & effort here on the forums & twitch too.
Cheers!
Evan Jarvis
Legend
Platinum Level
Wow, well that Sir, was an eye-opening read!
I had the pleasure of dropping into your channel the other day, so having experienced first-hand (kinda?) a little of what you're about it's unsurprising that your post was enlightening and struck a chord.
Reading it felt like confirmation of something that had been nagging away at the back of my mind.
It was perhaps naïve to focus all my study, energy and commitment on the MTT domain. I knew little of the 'poker' world when I made the decision to venture into it with more than recreational ambitions. Just that I wanted to be part of it more than anything else.
Anyway... Before I freefall-freetype my way into another War & Peace-esque forum monologue, just wanted to say pleased to make your acquaintance, so to speak.
Please forgive what's surely an inane question, but to someone who had only ever studied MTT strat and little-to-no cash strat (picked up playing wider ranges, obvs widening further with <opponents @ table) what would you say if they were able to relatively easily buy-in and gradually or otherwise multiply that buy-in numerous times over but seemingly always lose the lot eventually, one way or the other?
Is this as simple as 'quit while you're ahead' and don't stay too long or is it something else?
Many thanks in advance, for the Q&A's but also your time & effort here on the forums & twitch too.
Cheers!
I'm not sure I understand your question exactly.
Cash games are more about grinding out small edges, small amounts over and over and putting in enough hands/volume that eventually you end up winning a large amount.
They are a slightly different mindset than tournaments where you try to parlay a small amount into a big payday.
If however you're referring to bankroll management issues or building up a stack and then busting it check out these 2 videos. (The key is to have enough to always reload if the game is good and to never put yourself in a place where if you run bad for a session that you'll be out of bankroll)
Joe
99.98% Kiln dried
Bronze Level
I'm sorry my question wasn't clear..
I'll try and clarify what it was..
When I play cash tables, I can build up a decent stack easily enough, but if I don't quit while I'm ahead (which is tricky, no?) I seem to invariably lose everything I'd won. Any idea what I might be doing wrong?
That is what I was trying to ask, but I have seen you linked some videos- if now having clarified my question, if they are the videos I should start with, that is what I will do!
Thank you very much for the reply and sorry again about the previous post..
It was intended to be complimentary but sometimes I struggle with sleep and when that happens I get a little loopy..
Cheers!
Claudiunm
Legend
Platinum Level
Hello everybody.
My question is:
Whether you're winning or losing, how to identify when to stop?
Sometimes I'm losing a lot, and in their eagerness to recover end up losing more.
My question is:
Whether you're winning or losing, how to identify when to stop?
Sometimes I'm losing a lot, and in their eagerness to recover end up losing more.
Other times, I'm making a lot, I get excited and end up losing almost everything I got.